37 comments on “Making a Wooden Spokeshave: Info Page

  1. Is there another name for the O1 steel?

    I have a retired blacksmith friend who says he can’t find O1 steel in his reference books, not English nor USA and I am no use saying it is O1 steel “Paul says it is so it is”.

    Am looking forward to having a go, when our winter frosts are past; Southern hemisphere here.


  2. Hi,

    I have some Oak recovered from some pallets I am recycling. Is Oak a suitable wood for making a spokeshave? I do not see it mentioned.

    I plan to make one, which I intend using to make some cutlery with some Black Wattle I got from a neighbour who removed a tree from their garden. I have about eight logs approximately 20/30cm in diameter and about 60/80cm long. Enough for a number of spoons, ladles and salad servers.


  3. The tool steel just arrived and I am anxious to get started on this project. I’m also thinking this would be a great start for a travisher, but I’m curious if there are any suggestions about shaping the steel.

  4. Excellent work as always Mr Sellers, thank you for taking the time to present it.
    I have a question if I may ask, about the blade holding/adjusting arrangement:
    Does the blade stays flat and level after it is screwed tide in place, or it is arched in the mid section?
    As the setting screws pushing the blade outwards while the retaining screws pulling the blade’s ends inwards, bending forces applied to the blade.
    I suppose that after the steel is hardened it wouldn’t flex that much, but I run a test with a 3mm blade before hardening it and it was deflecting when screwed in place (even when lightly screwed).

    Best regards, and thank you for your inspirational work

      • Small update on the subject
        I tried to copy the Veritas design, where the setting screw is hollowed and coaxial with the retaining screw.
        For the setting screws I used the stems of bicycle inner tube valves, they worked fine. I went with Dunlop (Woods) valves as I had a few old tubes, I am sure the French valves (Presta) would work as well since they also are threaded all the way.
        For the Dunlops I drill a 7mm hole and use the valve’s stem to tap the wood.
        For the retaining screws I used M4 with nuts.
        The setup works fine as long as the holes are precisely drilled perpendicular to the blade.

  5. I am just wondering, but I made a spoke shave this weekends, and my shave looks much thicker than yours. When reviewing the screws, at 3/4 in, the wood at 11” x 1 ⅝” x 1 3/16” would be way to thick. I elected to reduce the wood stock to about 1 in (might have been closer to 3/4). This seamed to work well. It gave me 1 in less 1/8 for the steel, or 7/8ths need for the screw to press on the blade to make it adjustable. So, I am wondering if the dimensions for the wood were incorrect?



    • Hello Brian, just re-reviewed it as it was pointed out that it should be ¹³⁄₁₆” (or 21mm) rather than 1 ³⁄₁₆”, so have corrected in the project video and will get it changed in video. Thanks for the heads up.

      • Thanks Philip. Yes, 13/16ths would make a difference. Thank you for making the change. I will probably make this tool again because I messed a few things up (not sure how both my dad and I did not notice the error when measuring), so the corrected directions will help.



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