8 Comments

  1. Flemming Aaberg on 9 May 2019 at 10:00 am

    Nice one Paul – my wife really likes this one and although she’s not really a woodworker we may just build this one together this coming summer.

  2. Marco Cividin on 10 May 2019 at 9:03 pm

    Why did Paul use pegs instead of glue? I apologize if I did not understand something that has already been explained. Thank you very much

    • ted clawton on 11 May 2019 at 5:50 am

      I have the same question. I’m guessing because of moisture, similar to the breadboard-end cutting board.

      Paul, was a pleasure watching you put this together. Thank you.

    • Sven-Olof Jansson on 11 May 2019 at 8:27 pm

      While there are moisture resistant PVA glues, only polyurethane and in particular epoxy glue are water resistant. Many brands of the former do not lend themselves well to furniture joinery (though there appear to be some that do better), and the latter are comparatively expensive.

      If frost resistance also is required, then polyurethane glues are perhaps the only alternative. The ones I’ve used could be sanded and planed, but the joint lines were quite “outlined” by the glue.

      • Larry Geib on 12 May 2019 at 4:28 am

        There are a couple old fashion glues that are still used in boat building and wooden aircraft building that are alternatives

        The first is resourcenol glues. Some brands are Aerodux and Cascophen, athought there are several others. These glues are gap filling and very waterproof, in my youth they were considered totally suitable below waterline on boats. These are usually two part formulations and you add water.

        The second type is a somewhat related plastic resin glues.
        Cascamite, Aerolite, Balcotan, and weldwood 203 are good enough to use above waterline. They are sometimes known as urea formaldehyde glues.
        They are a dry powder mixed with water to activate.

        All of these contain formaldehyde, so I don’t recommend them inside, but the ougassing doesn’t last all that long and would be fine outside. These glues have a long open time, so if you think getting all the bits together will take a while, they are a good choice. The older formulations had way too much formaldehyde to ensure total activation. The newer formulations are more balanced.

        The downsides to these glues are several, and why people went to epoxies.
        They are really messy and sticky, so old clothes and gloves are a must.
        They are hard to mix, the urea is a crystalline powder and will feel gritty if you aren’t thorough in your mixing.
        They require high clamping pressure for a day or so, so if you are shy on clamps, use an alternative.

        • Ed on 12 May 2019 at 3:16 pm

          I remember a glue we used in shop class when I was a kid. It was mixed from powder and water, was purple, and gritty. It was for a bird feeder. I wonder if it was one of the glues you mentioned?

    • Selva Nair on 12 May 2019 at 12:32 am

      I’ve used Titebond III a few times for outdoor furniture and bird houses. All holding up well after 5 years. Its rated for exterior use but not for below waterline and claims ANSI type I water resistance.

  3. Sandy on 11 May 2019 at 3:57 pm

    I seldom question a design but I tend to shy away from fasteners if possible. I love the aspects of joinery without fasteners. On the center support, did you consider using a through tenon and wedge joint?

Leave a Comment

You must be logged in to post a comment.