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Chess Board: Episode 3

Chess Board 3

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Once the glue has cured overnight, Paul cleans up the surfaces with a cabinet scraper. The edges are checked for square and planed for consistency ensuring they are parallel. Then the substrate board is measured and cut to size ensuring a consistent overhang, whilst minimizing tear-out. The skirt piece is grooved to receive the board and mitred to meet crisply at the corner, taking special care with the final corner.

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14 Comments

  1. oldman118 on at

    Painstaking attention to detail,as always. A great thing for students ( no matter what our age ) to emulate.

  2. billblab on at

    Paul, I got butterflies in my stomach watching the final strokes on the shooting board. Wonderful lesson. Thank you.

  3. Eddy Flynn on at

    decisions decisions it’s great when we see Paul question himself, should I shouldn’t I

  4. beach512 on at

    great episode once again but I don’t have a plane like that to cut the groove. They are a bit expensive from Lee Valley or secondhand on ebay. Any ideas on alternatives? Would it be knife walls, saw groove walls to depth and chisel out?

  5. knightlylad on at

    Thank you for a great lesson.

  6. ballinger on at

    Yeah right at the end Paul said he’ll take just one more shaving. Maybe two. I said to myself, he’ll take three, he always takes one extra. Sure enough it was three. Wonderful watching the super tight tolerances and knowing what’s possible to aim for.

  7. STEVE MASSIE on at

    Another great episode , you obviously have to have patience when fitting the miters for sure. Learned a lot, thank you.

    Steve

  8. Sandy on at

    There is no way I can get a good edge if I plan all the way across the end grain. I beak out a chunk every time… I’ve sharpened the blade and adjusted to a very fine cut and I always have to glue a little chip back in… I guess I am not paying the preacher enough.. 🙂

    • Joseph Palas on at

      Make sure the back edge is supported, if youre not using a shooting board, you can do it in the vise with a sacrificial block snug up against the edge, so no chip out.

      If you ARE using a shooting board, you may have your piece too far out, so watch paul as he snugs the wood up against the plane before he starts taking strokes. Also make sure to sharpen up before you try to take a cut.

      Unsupported end-grain will always chip out when unsupported on the back side, it’s physics.

  9. David B on at

    Is it possible to use something other than a plough to cut the groove in the frame/skirt? I have used a thinner piece of plywood for my substrate and I don’t believe my plough can cut a groove that is thinner than 3/8″. Is it adviseable/possible to use a saw on the edges and chisel out the waste in the middle? I mean–I’m sure it’s possible, but is there a better way/alternative?

  10. I don’t recognize your plough plane, is it an early Veritas?

    • Izzy BergerTeam Member on at

      Hi Matthew,

      This is a Stanley plane that’s no longer made but readily available on eBay.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

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